We see
restaurants come and go every time. Fast-moving trends, fastidious customers,
unsustainable quality or service and annoyingly greedy landlords could, among
other reasons, be key to the fickle nature of the food and beverage industry in
Singapore. I applaud the tenacity of
restaurants that have survived the onslaught of changes through the years. One of these is Epicurious at Robertson Quay.
My family had
seen Epicurious develop from a little restaurant offering a limited menu 14
years ago, to the restaurant it is today, experimenting with different
ingredients and cuisines to create dishes that are unique.
I remembered accidentally
stumbling into Epicurious when I was buying some gourmet bread from Simply
Bread which was located just a few doors away.
That was how I met Helena, the owner of Epicurious. She also procured her bread from Simply Bread
and that was how it became one of our favorite restaurants for a simple wine
and cheese dinner. That was 14 years
ago. My son Joel was still little then
and often bounced into the restaurant calling out at the top of his voice, “Aunty
Helena!” 14 years after, Epicurious is
still there, and still getting its bread from Simply Bread which has since shifted and Joel still bounces into the restaurant, calling out “Aunty
Helena!” at the top of his voice even at 23 years old. Also, the restaurant built its success over
the years on great service that was personal and familial, as well as its stupendous
brunch fare with Helena’s signature touch of Epicurean fun which can be found
in dishes like Fried Poached Egg and Rainbow Cheese Toast. I wrote a little about the dishes she served
at brunch that were quite different in a previous blog post: http://whatmakesmybellytick.blogspot.sg/2016/05/breakfast-will-not-be-boring-again.html
Helena’s sense
of fun did not stop at brunch fare. I
often stalked her instagram feed to see what her wonderfully crazy mind
concocted that would be on her “blackboard” specials. I would swoon over her Ribeye Salad with
Crispy Kale, Soy-roasted Pumpkin and Sunflower seeds, all held together with a
spicy Thai-style vinaigrette. Even
better, was that a dish like that for me, was personal trainer-approved. My friends who are rake-thin would have the advantage
of tucking into one of Helena’s more yummy but sinful creations prepared in
February this year, in conjunction with the Chinese New Year. This was the Creamy Salted Egg Yolk Spaghetti with Prawns, Baby Scallops, Crab and
Asparagus. There were days I thought
Helena had lost her mind when she had decided to go “all the way” with her
sense of adventure and came up with a Croquette Salad which consisted of mesclun
greens, pineapple and cucumber salad tossed with a sweet and sour dressing made
up of mango, chilli and lime juice, then topped up with a couple of crispy Corned Beef Croquettes. I classified this as experimental “loopiness”
but my friends labelled it as ingenious.
Helena called it, “Hel’s Kitchen”.
Intrigued, I
pulled my friend Shaun along with me for dinner at “Hel’s Kitchen” last
week. I understood that Helena’s ingenuity
had led to her putting together an amazing new menu of Peranakan-inspired
dishes that, as usual, came with Helena’s experimental flare.
I first teased
Shaun with one of her instagram post which showed an extremely pretty picture
of Helena’s version of a chicken dish
called Ayam Sioh. He was sold immediately.
It was based on a 150 year-old
Peranakan recipe taught to her by her friend.
While she changed the technique of preparing the dish, the taste, she
claimed, remained true to the original recipe.
Helena’s version was made up of Sakura chicken breasts which is
antibiotic and hormone-free, cooked with spices made from tamarind, coriander
seed, and shallot. And because we all
try to go low-carb at dinner (Helena included), she topped the chicken breasts
with carrot “noodles” stir-fried with Thai basil and laksa leaf and garnished
with egg floss. That dish looked so enticing in her Instagram post. So I was gamed to try the rest.
We ordered the
Banana Leaf Barramundi. That was Shaun’s
favourite dish hands down that night.
The fish was lightly spiced with a sweet and sour chilli paste, baked in
banana leaf and served with char-grilled okra and cherry tomatoes. Shaun thought it was quite a stunning work of
art really. I ordered the Bibik Bouillabaisse
which was a light seafood bouillabaisse
prepared with traditional Peranakan spices that enhanced and did not overwhelm
the seafood at all. We also tried the Spicy Winged Bean Salad which was tasty, addictive and not overpoweringly spicy. As it was our “diet
cheat day”, we decided to get bolder
with our orders. We had the Popcorn
Chicken with Salted Egg Yolk Sauce (don’t tell my personal trainer) and the
Vietnamese Street Wings that paired very well with our bottle of white wine.
We were so
stuffed at the end of our dinner and had no room for her equally unique
Peranakan-inspired desserts like her Coconut, Kaya and Gula Melaka French Toasts
with caramelized banana.
Our dinner
however, blew our mind about the culinary ingenuity one could come up with,
when one had an opened mind, a spirit of adventure, and a voracious appetite
for food and life. That was uniquely
Helena, wasn’t it?
Epicurious might have been in existence at the same spot at Robertson Quay for the past 14 years, but might not be there for long as the restaurant's lease comes up in August. So if you haven't tried it yet, it's really quite something to have dinner at Hel's Kitchen.
Banana Leaf Barramundi
Bibik Bouillabaisse
Spicy Winged Bean Salad
Popcorn Chicken With Salted
Egg Yolk Sauce
Vietnamese Street Wings
Our
Verdict? - BELLY INGENIOUSLY YUMMY
About
The Writer:
This blog post was co-written by my brother Jerome and I. Although we are siblings who grew up 11 years apart, shaped by differing experiences to see the world from different perspectives, we do share a common obsession – FOOD. We celebrate our passion for life with food. However, our attitudes to food are quite different and the way we celebrate our love for food are also quite different. Jerome lives to eat and hoovers everything edible that crosses his path. As he shovels food into his mouth with that fork in his right hand, he takes photographs of what he eats, and posts pictures and notes up on Facebook with his left. Often, his beautifully written prose about what he had eaten would be 7 paragraphs in length and would not have any punctuations in between because he had been too busy multi-tasking.
I, on the other hand, eat to live. It is not just about my attempts to eat healthily. As I am a “cam-whore” and “social media hussy”, I spend about half an hour styling my food, taking photographs, writing notes and posting them across my social media platforms before eating them, right after the hubby has paid for the bill and is about to head out of the restaurant. I enjoy reading all my posts about what I had eaten because I know that I had lived fully in spite of watching what I eat. Welcome to the foodie world of the quirky Ong siblings.
This blog post was co-written by my brother Jerome and I. Although we are siblings who grew up 11 years apart, shaped by differing experiences to see the world from different perspectives, we do share a common obsession – FOOD. We celebrate our passion for life with food. However, our attitudes to food are quite different and the way we celebrate our love for food are also quite different. Jerome lives to eat and hoovers everything edible that crosses his path. As he shovels food into his mouth with that fork in his right hand, he takes photographs of what he eats, and posts pictures and notes up on Facebook with his left. Often, his beautifully written prose about what he had eaten would be 7 paragraphs in length and would not have any punctuations in between because he had been too busy multi-tasking.
I, on the other hand, eat to live. It is not just about my attempts to eat healthily. As I am a “cam-whore” and “social media hussy”, I spend about half an hour styling my food, taking photographs, writing notes and posting them across my social media platforms before eating them, right after the hubby has paid for the bill and is about to head out of the restaurant. I enjoy reading all my posts about what I had eaten because I know that I had lived fully in spite of watching what I eat. Welcome to the foodie world of the quirky Ong siblings.
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